England Part One: "Here I am once more in this scene of dissipation and vice, and I begin already to find my morals corrupted."

September 12, 2018

Dear Jane,

The time has (finally) come for me to attempt to give a charming and thorough account of  my diverting holiday in England, though I must say that the thought of relating every happy moment and activity is daunting! Therefore, I have decided to do one or two days at a time. I am well aware that if I do not write it down, I shall forget it and that would be unpardonable. I cannot believe it has been a over a month since I returned home! Where has the summer gone, Jane? (But also, huzzah for the fast approach of Autumn!)

The above quotation is from a letter you wrote in August of 1796 to your sister, Cassandra, upon arriving in London. Oh, you do make me laugh, Jane...and how fortuitous that I too was there in August!

Night of the Flight

It was all going exceedingly well as I drove to JFK international airport on the first of August, Jane. I had my new E-ZPass, there was barely any traffic between Connecticut and New York City (unheard of!), my car, a corolla named, "The Tuscan Loaf Cake," was well situated at a short-term parking lot and I made it through airport security in relatively good time; all-in-all it was tremendous beginning to my travel day.


THEN, with barely thirty minutes to go before boarding my flight, what happened? My glasses broke! If I were a wizard, I would have simply said, "Oculus Reparo!" and they would have magically fixed themselves. This, however, was not the case so I gathered my belongings with haste and hurried to find at best, a glasses repair kit, at worst...scotch tape. Mind you, as I traversed the airport like a madwoman, my glasses were half-hanging off of my face and for someone with vision as poor as mine, it made the situation all the more stressful (and in hindsight...enormously humorous). At this point, gentle readers may be asking, "Why didn't you just put your contacts back in, Amanda?" And to that I say, "Shut it." Please excuse my rudeness, Jane.
THE GLASSES.THE TAPE.
THE MADNESS.

Never-the-less, after several failed attempts of trying to find a repair kit or tape for purchase, I finally went to the currency exchange counter and begged a fellow four-eyes if he had any tape to spare. With a quizzical, yet understanding nod, he produced the longed-for tape and the immediate danger of never being able to see again was over. I then boarded my overnight flight and all was well in the world. Dare I even go on? Can anything else top this riveting story??

Day One

I arrived at Heathrow of London on the second of August after my fist solo, international flight feeling both excited and nervous. I was excited, quite obviously, because I was in London (my favorite city in the world) and ready to have a most wonderful holiday. I was nervous because as I *ahem* age gracefully, I tend to think of everything in the world that can go wrong! I arrived much earlier than my sister, Rachael, so I had the task of journeying via the tube to our hotel by myself. (This part of the journey was not too concerning, Jane, as I am quite adept at travelling on underground trains.) I was more concerned that because I arrived so early in the day (check in was not until much later in the afternoon), the hotel wouldn't be willing to let me freshen up or leave my bags. These concerns were, of course, ridiculous, as the hotel staff were more than willing to assist me (as the rational part of me knew they would be). And so, with luggage stored and a fresh dress on, my adventures in England began in earnest!

First Stop: The British Library
Reason: To stand in awe of your treasured writing desk, Miss Austen.

St. Pancras Hotel
After emerging from the magical King's Cross Station, I first had to do a quick photo shoot of the exquisite St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel; it is a most breathtaking sight, Jane. I then briskly walked to the British Library (the one place I didn't need Google Maps to find) and walked boldly into the Treasures of the British Library room in order to find the greatest British treasure of them all...your writing desk. I don't know how long I started at it, Jane, but I do know that my eyes welled up for just a moment. I then took a lap of the room glancing mindlessly at the other artifacts (many of which deserved a much more thorough observation on my part) but I was pulled as if by gravity back to your desk. What an incredible object. After I had my fill of staring, I then wandered the building for a little while longer before continuing on my bookish journey.
No photography allowed
in the British Treasures room!

After the British Library, I had a long list of bookstores and literary locations I wanted to visit before meeting Rachael for afternoon tea at four o'clock. Thus I began my lovely trek through London Town on a rather warm August day. Happily, I passed several little bookshops on my way through town, but more excitingly, I happened upon a past residence of author, J.M. Barrie. (Well, a residence that stands on the site of his house that is no longer there...it's the little things that excite me, Jane.)


"Second Star to the right,
and straight on till morning."
Second Stop: Persephone Books
Reason: This is a most charming bookshop inside and out, but more importantly they specialize in selling and publishing works by female writers, Jane. #FemalesAreStrongAsHell

Persephone Books is, as the youths say, exceedingly "insta-worthy." The aesthetic of both the outside and inside of the establishment is just splendid, and as I mentioned before, they are focused almost solely on female writers (both in and out of print). I had the pleasure of purchasing a lovely greeting card featuring a Regency scene set in Bath, UK as well as a copy of Virginia Woolf's, "A Room of One's Own." I would highly recommend bibliophiles journey to this store if ever they find themselves in London. 

Reason: Need I a reason?
I must be honest, Jane, I only explored the cafe, gift shop and garden here...but I wanted to at least see it as Mr. Dickens is another favorite of mine. Unfortunately, I had to be highly selective about which museums I visited as admission prices can truly add up when visiting the glorious city of London!

Do you now understand why I can only present one day of my trip at a time? Details are the devil's work, Jane! (To be sure, that is an exaggeration of an excessively languid writer...and the writer I am speaking of...is me.)


Fourth/Fifth Stop: Waterstones & Hatchards, Piccadilly
Reason: Because they're beauteous bookstores--what's with the third degree, Amanda?

Magical displays at
Waterstones!
Whatever you may have heard, one bookstore is not like another. Waterstones is an immensely impressive store with quite a large selection of books AND some truly magical Harry Potter displays on the children's floor. I purchased a book entitled, The Royal Baby's Big Red Bus Tour of London, for my darling nephew and I know he will love it when he finally learns of our family's adoration of the British Royal Family.
Hatchards: By Appointment
To Her Majesty the Queen

Speaking of the Royal Family, next on the list was Hatchards: London's oldest bookshop and one that holds three Royal Warrants...aka they are besties with Her Majesty the Queen. Hatchards is beautifully decorated, boasts five floors of books, and again...is 'By Appointment To Her Majesty the Queen.' So, yes, they are definitely worth visiting!


Sixth Stop: Buckingham Palace
Reason: "Cause we'll never be royals..." 


    
Open the Gates and
 Seize the Day...
or the Peasants.
A Royally good selfie.
When one suddenly comes upon Buckingham Palace, one feels entirely elated, Jane. What a sight to behold! Even though I have seen it before (and toured the inside with my sisters on a previous trip), it is still astounding to see. Just looking up at the balcony where the Royals stand for special engagements, makes one feel positively giddy! In truth, when I finally reached the Palace, I was quite wearied from my day of exploring but I was instantly rejuvenated by the sight of it. What a truly grand place of residence, Jane. If only it were mine! 




Seventh and Final Stop: The Rubens At The Palace
Reason: Afternoon tea with my sister...in London...near Buckingham Palace...need I say more?
The lovely window seat
that we ultimately had to
relinquish due to heat
exhaustion. More on this below.
Anne Boleyn was
 *HANGING*
around...get it?
I was too busy eating that I didn't snap any photos of our food! 
Luckily they had a sample display in the lobby...


The time finally came, Jane, to meet my sister for tea and celebrate the official beginning of our England holiday. I found a 30% off voucher for afternoon tea at this enchanting tea parlour so we said, "When in London!" I knew we were in a good place when I saw a large portrait of Anne Boleyn hanging in the tea room- you know how fascinated I am with Anne, of course. Anyway, here is a numbered list of what happened next (because lists are easier than paragraphs):
  1. My sister finally arrived.
  2. We hugged joyously!
  3. We were seated on a humble (Regency term for 'way too small') love seat in front of a grand window.
  4. We were thankfully moved from said window and love seat for it was the hottest of days and we were *glistening* something fierce.
  5. Sitting at our new table, we ate every last morsel of delectable food.
  6. We drank the last drop of our flavorful teas.
  7. We felt that we were unequivocally living the London dream at last.
  8. We attempted to take the tube to Earl's Court (where our hotel was located) but the evening rush was too much so we hailed a taxi and continued living our best London lives.
  9. We checked into our hotel and found that we had a lovely view from our room!
  10. We walked down the street to a fashionable drinking establishment and partook in some refreshing rosé.
  11. We returned to the hotel and promptly fell asleep.

There you have it, Jane...Day One. Can you imagine if I had tried to put every single day in this letter? I do not believe it would have ever seen the light of day as I nearly gave up trying to write all of this.

Anyway, I shall write again soon with more tales from England!

Yours Faithfully,

Amanda 

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