England Part Three: "I had a pleasant walk in Kensington Gardens on Sunday with Henry...everything was fresh and beautiful."
October 6, 2018
Dear Jane,
Please accept my hearty Autumnal Greetings, friend! In truth, I am elated that my favorite month, October, has finally arrived. That being said, however, I must continue sharing my adventures from my time in England this past summer. I believe I left off ready to relate our activities from Saturday, the fourth of August, and pray, be excited for it was a royally diverting day.
Now, if I recall correctly, Saturday started off quite precariously because the tube station near our hotel was undergoing weekend construction and we had a very small window to catch the correct bus to our first destination...breakfast. Just kidding (sort of). We did have breakfast reservations, but more importantly we had a timed ticket entry to Kensington Palace at 10:45 in the morning. That may not seem early, but when one is jet-lagged, on vacation and in need of a good breakfast with many cups of coffee...timing is everything.
Pray, do not worry yourself, for I am happy to say that after another small moment of sisterly bickering, much breathless running and a great deal of luck, we made the bus in quite literally the nick of time! Our troubles were not over yet, though. Once on the bus, I realized that my Oyster card was out of money! (I may or may not have left the tube the night before without swiping out as one is required to do. I think the system fined me for allegedly doing this.) If Rachael had not happened to have an extra Oyster card on her with literally just enough money for a bus ride, it would not have mattered whether or not we made the bus. It should be noted that the entirety of our day would have been severely thrown off if we had not gotten on we when we did, Jane. Happily, Lady Luck was on our side AND we got great window seats on the top level to boot! Huzzah! I do love a London bus ride, Jane.
Anyway, we had breakfast at Bill's on Kensington High Street, and though it was not my favorite meal (in general, I am not a fan of breakfast in England...this is the only thing that has ever been unsatisfactory there), it did the job and coffee was had. Rachael and I were ready to explore the home of the Dukes & Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex. I am filled with excitement just thinking about it again, Jane! Kensington Palace is another location that both Rachael and I had seen and admired from the outside but had never explored inside, so it was a new treat for us! I must confess that finding things to do that Rachael had not yet done was no easy feat as she lived in London for quite some time.
After arriving at the Palace and waiting in the queue for only a short while, we made our way inside to the grand, Royal residence. (An aside: Please note my use of "queue" instead of "line." We, Americans, are terrible at queues and should learn from the British how best to "queue up" for things.) I must confess that I expected to see the Duchess of Cambridge at every turn...but in that regard, my expectations were in vain. Happily, the palace, itself, did not disappoint. Inside, there was a wonderful exhibit entitled, "Diana: Her Fashion Story," which had on display many of Princess Diana's most iconic dresses. It was an amazing collection that spoke volumes, not only to her renowned fashion sense, but the way her unique style blended with her regard and awareness for countless cultures and traditions.
In addition to the above exhibit, we explored many historic and beautifully decorated State Rooms as well as a wing of the Palace which was solely devoted to the life of Queen Victoria and her husband, Prince Albert. You had better to believe that I forced Rachael to take my photograph wherever it was allowed...and you should know, gentle readers, that they had costumes available for patrons to adorn themselves with. I could not resist, of course. What would I do without such a fine travelling companion and sister? I know not!
After exploring the inside of Kensington Palace, it was time to venture out into the famed gardens (just as you once did, Jane--the above quotation is from a letter you wrote to Cassandra in April of 1811). Obviously, an 'after-exploration-of-the-Palace' snack was necessary, so we picked up a couple of delicious ice cream cones on the way out of the gift shop. Why buy things when one can buy ice cream, Jane?
Our first stop outside was the Sunken Garden, where just last November, Prince Harry and Miss Meghan Markle announced their engagement to the world. IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN ME. Ahem. Apologies for the outburst, gentle readers...I truly am incandescently happy for the Royal couple! (Continues to write with bitterness in her heart...)
As you can imagine, much photography and iPhone Portrait Mode ensued and all too soon it was time for us to depart for our next destination..but not before face-timing with our beloved nephew and our sister, Regina! We missed them so!
After the Palace, our day took a more magical turn as we found ourselves outside another Palace: the Palace Theater. It is at this theater that the play, 'Harry Potter and the Cursed Child,' is currently running in London. I just had to see the theater where it all began and Rachael continued her role as photographer, of course. AND, thanks to some thorough research on my part (yes, I am being a braggart), I found that just around the corner from the theater stands a gallery called the House of MinaLima. This enchanting establishment is both a print shop and a museum of sorts that features graphic designs and art from the Harry Potter movies. It is a charming place where entry is free of charge and is definitely worth a visit for #Potterheads who find themselves in London!
The rest of the afternoon was something of a blur because it was SO, EXCEEDINGLY HOT, Jane. And just as you once wrote about hot weather, it also put Rachael and I in a continual state of inelegance! Nevertheless, we kept calm and carried on because there were still sights to be seen. (I wouldn't say that I was an itinerary tyrant, exactly, but I will say that I was an itinerary dictator.)
Next up was a short respite in Neal's Yard (a colorful and joyous little courtyard that houses shops and restaurants) and then we made our way to the National Portrait Gallery. One does not go all the way to London without seeing two very special portraits. Can you guess what they are? That's right (I assume you guessed correctly): The portraits of Jane Austen & Anne Boleyn. It feels like a pilgrimage each time I see Cassandra Austen's portrait of you, Jane.
After our quick portrait stop, we wandered in and out of bookshops in historic Cecil Court for a spell before journeying through Goodwin's Court on our way to Covent Garden. For those who are not in the know, Goodwin's Court would appear to be a regular, old London alleyway. For those wizards who do endless research on Harry Potter locations in London, however, this particular alleyway is thought to be inspiration for the sinister Knockturn Alley. But I don't know any of those sort of wizards....(I jest, of course. That wizard is me and I am her.)
As we emerged from Knockturn...I mean Goodwin's Court, it took Rachael and I about thirty seconds to decide against spending time in Covent Garden. We had both been there before, it felt as though it was 300 degrees outside and there seemed to be one million people in our midst. Additionally, there was some sort of biker parade happening at the time (at least that is what my brain thinks it was. I'm sure Rachael could clarify.) I was insistent, however, that we stop by 10 Henrietta Street, as it was a place you often visited when your brother, Henry, resided there. You have a plaque and everything!
Of course, we also had to pop into the main market to hear some opera (a young lady was singing, 'O Mio Babbino Caro,' as young ladies are always apt to do there). We were only in the area for about twenty minutes but we were more than ready to, excuse my vulgarity, get the heck out of there and find ourselves a nice cold pint. Find it we did, Jane, at a most charming pub called "The Cross Keys."
At some point after we left the pub, I was tipsy, lethargic and demanded we stop for pizza because I was famished (even though I ate a bag of PO-TAY-TO crisps with my pint--'Lord of the Rings' inside joke alert). We decided to walk back to Trafalgar square with the intent of visiting the National [art] Gallery, but when we arrived, were ready to fall asleep where we stood (heat, walking and a single pint of cider do that to a girl). Happily, we made the excellent decision to travel back to our hotel for an afternoon nap before our 9:30 PM Dim Sum reservation...which was NON-NEGOTIABLE. You know how we feel about meals, Jane.
I cannot emphasize enough how life-saving that nap was, Jane! I felt like a new woman, one who was ready to hit the town and eat some dim sum at the very sleek and chic Opium Cocktail Bar at 9:30 AT NIGHT! I know, I couldn't believe it either. As a general rule, Yours Faithfully Amanda does not leave the house after 8:00 PM; that is the power of naps during vacation. So let me tell you about our time at the Peony Bar within Opium. It is a 'hidden den (their words)' that feels very exclusive (even though all you have to do is make a reservation on the internet) because there is a doorman outside on the street who asks for your name and then makes you wait before sending you inside and up a mysterious staircase that leads to a very dark bar where you will, inevitably, not feel "hip" enough to be there. The suspense and mystery were worth it though because the dumplings were quite delicious and the cocktails were divine and came with quite a production. I chose the "Hong Kong." The description of this drink is as follows: 'Frapin 1270 cognac, Earl Grey Lalani & Co, sake, orange flower water, peach, smoked pear & lemon balm.' It also came with a fancy little fan (which I regretfully had to return despite my best efforts to 'misplace' it in my purse) to waft the scent and a GIANT ice cube. I regret that it was too dark to take satisfactory pictures but I tried! It was quite the experience.
After our dumplings and cocktails, we walked around London and crossed the [insert bridge name here] by foot to the South Bank. Regrettably, Big Ben was not to be seen as we crossed the bridge for it is cloaked almost entirely in scaffolding! Whilst on the South Bank we had a lovely glass of prosecco, listened to a very talented singer and just took in the general splendour of our surroundings. We then walked past the London Eye and over Westminster Bridge in order to catch a glimpse of Westminster Abbey. What a stunning piece of architecture and how lovely it was to wander around it at night when crowds where sparse.
As we were both ready (I more than Rachael...I have my limits when it comes to night excusions, Jane) to turn in for the night, we hopped aboard the tube once more and made our way back to our hotel in Earl's Court. What a splendid day it was! And how lovely to reminsce amongst friends. Until next time, Jane!
Yours Faithfully,
Amanda
Dear Jane,
Please accept my hearty Autumnal Greetings, friend! In truth, I am elated that my favorite month, October, has finally arrived. That being said, however, I must continue sharing my adventures from my time in England this past summer. I believe I left off ready to relate our activities from Saturday, the fourth of August, and pray, be excited for it was a royally diverting day.
Now, if I recall correctly, Saturday started off quite precariously because the tube station near our hotel was undergoing weekend construction and we had a very small window to catch the correct bus to our first destination...breakfast. Just kidding (sort of). We did have breakfast reservations, but more importantly we had a timed ticket entry to Kensington Palace at 10:45 in the morning. That may not seem early, but when one is jet-lagged, on vacation and in need of a good breakfast with many cups of coffee...timing is everything.
Pray, do not worry yourself, for I am happy to say that after another small moment of sisterly bickering, much breathless running and a great deal of luck, we made the bus in quite literally the nick of time! Our troubles were not over yet, though. Once on the bus, I realized that my Oyster card was out of money! (I may or may not have left the tube the night before without swiping out as one is required to do. I think the system fined me for allegedly doing this.) If Rachael had not happened to have an extra Oyster card on her with literally just enough money for a bus ride, it would not have mattered whether or not we made the bus. It should be noted that the entirety of our day would have been severely thrown off if we had not gotten on we when we did, Jane. Happily, Lady Luck was on our side AND we got great window seats on the top level to boot! Huzzah! I do love a London bus ride, Jane.
Anyway, we had breakfast at Bill's on Kensington High Street, and though it was not my favorite meal (in general, I am not a fan of breakfast in England...this is the only thing that has ever been unsatisfactory there), it did the job and coffee was had. Rachael and I were ready to explore the home of the Dukes & Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex. I am filled with excitement just thinking about it again, Jane! Kensington Palace is another location that both Rachael and I had seen and admired from the outside but had never explored inside, so it was a new treat for us! I must confess that finding things to do that Rachael had not yet done was no easy feat as she lived in London for quite some time.
 |
| Hello, Cambridge Family! |
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| One of Diana's iconic dresses. |
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| She was a trailblazer! |
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| Some of Victoria's jewels. |
In addition to the above exhibit, we explored many historic and beautifully decorated State Rooms as well as a wing of the Palace which was solely devoted to the life of Queen Victoria and her husband, Prince Albert. You had better to believe that I forced Rachael to take my photograph wherever it was allowed...and you should know, gentle readers, that they had costumes available for patrons to adorn themselves with. I could not resist, of course. What would I do without such a fine travelling companion and sister? I know not!
 |
| Thinking like a Queen... |
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| The Duke & Duchess of Sussex during their engagement announcement. Photo: Chris Jackson/ Getty Images |
Our first stop outside was the Sunken Garden, where just last November, Prince Harry and Miss Meghan Markle announced their engagement to the world. IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN ME. Ahem. Apologies for the outburst, gentle readers...I truly am incandescently happy for the Royal couple! (Continues to write with bitterness in her heart...)
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| Sisters at the Sunken Garden! |
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| My sister is a model!! |
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| My friend didn't turn around for the picture. #Rude. |
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| MAGIC! |
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| Such wonderful things inside MinaLima! |
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| Neal's Yard! |
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| Your portrait, Jane! |
Next up was a short respite in Neal's Yard (a colorful and joyous little courtyard that houses shops and restaurants) and then we made our way to the National Portrait Gallery. One does not go all the way to London without seeing two very special portraits. Can you guess what they are? That's right (I assume you guessed correctly): The portraits of Jane Austen & Anne Boleyn. It feels like a pilgrimage each time I see Cassandra Austen's portrait of you, Jane.
 |
| Anne & I. |
After our quick portrait stop, we wandered in and out of bookshops in historic Cecil Court for a spell before journeying through Goodwin's Court on our way to Covent Garden. For those who are not in the know, Goodwin's Court would appear to be a regular, old London alleyway. For those wizards who do endless research on Harry Potter locations in London, however, this particular alleyway is thought to be inspiration for the sinister Knockturn Alley. But I don't know any of those sort of wizards....(I jest, of course. That wizard is me and I am her.)
 |
| Cecil Court: A bookish street! |
 |
| Goodwin's Court...AKA Knockturn Alley |
 |
| Look familiar, Potterheads!? |
As we emerged from Knockturn...I mean Goodwin's Court, it took Rachael and I about thirty seconds to decide against spending time in Covent Garden. We had both been there before, it felt as though it was 300 degrees outside and there seemed to be one million people in our midst. Additionally, there was some sort of biker parade happening at the time (at least that is what my brain thinks it was. I'm sure Rachael could clarify.) I was insistent, however, that we stop by 10 Henrietta Street, as it was a place you often visited when your brother, Henry, resided there. You have a plaque and everything! |
| Your plaque! |
 |
| So charming. |
 |
| IT WAS SO DARK IN THERE! |
I cannot emphasize enough how life-saving that nap was, Jane! I felt like a new woman, one who was ready to hit the town and eat some dim sum at the very sleek and chic Opium Cocktail Bar at 9:30 AT NIGHT! I know, I couldn't believe it either. As a general rule, Yours Faithfully Amanda does not leave the house after 8:00 PM; that is the power of naps during vacation. So let me tell you about our time at the Peony Bar within Opium. It is a 'hidden den (their words)' that feels very exclusive (even though all you have to do is make a reservation on the internet) because there is a doorman outside on the street who asks for your name and then makes you wait before sending you inside and up a mysterious staircase that leads to a very dark bar where you will, inevitably, not feel "hip" enough to be there. The suspense and mystery were worth it though because the dumplings were quite delicious and the cocktails were divine and came with quite a production. I chose the "Hong Kong." The description of this drink is as follows: 'Frapin 1270 cognac, Earl Grey Lalani & Co, sake, orange flower water, peach, smoked pear & lemon balm.' It also came with a fancy little fan (which I regretfully had to return despite my best efforts to 'misplace' it in my purse) to waft the scent and a GIANT ice cube. I regret that it was too dark to take satisfactory pictures but I tried! It was quite the experience.
 |
| The Hong Kong. Note the fan. |
 |
| The London Eye...still haven't been on it. |
After our dumplings and cocktails, we walked around London and crossed the [insert bridge name here] by foot to the South Bank. Regrettably, Big Ben was not to be seen as we crossed the bridge for it is cloaked almost entirely in scaffolding! Whilst on the South Bank we had a lovely glass of prosecco, listened to a very talented singer and just took in the general splendour of our surroundings. We then walked past the London Eye and over Westminster Bridge in order to catch a glimpse of Westminster Abbey. What a stunning piece of architecture and how lovely it was to wander around it at night when crowds where sparse.
As we were both ready (I more than Rachael...I have my limits when it comes to night excusions, Jane) to turn in for the night, we hopped aboard the tube once more and made our way back to our hotel in Earl's Court. What a splendid day it was! And how lovely to reminsce amongst friends. Until next time, Jane!
Yours Faithfully,
Amanda
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