England Part Six: "They were all of them warm in their admiration; and at that moment she felt that to be mistress of Pemberley might be something!"

December 12, 2018

Dear Jane,

I know...I also cannot believe that I am writing so soon after my last letter, but as your birthday is fast approaching, I figured that it was my duty to share with you the most lovely and Jane-Austen-filled day from our time in England. Coincidentally, this exciting day also happened to be the pinnacle of our holiday as we finally journeyed to Chatsworth House in Derbyshire. *Insert Pride & Prejudice fan-girl scream here.* (Note: If all goes according to plan, you will not have to hear about our summer sojourn anymore come the New Year. Huzzah!) I must confess that this is to be a lengthy letter, so grab a cuppa while you still can.

Before I begin in earnest, I must give you and my gentle readers a short Pride & Prejudice history lesson as it relates to Chatsworth House in modern times, Jane. For those who don't know, Chatsworth House is a stately home belonging to the Cavendish family since the 16th century. More importantly (just kidding...kind of), it was the filming location of Mr. Darcy's famed estate, Pemberley, in the 2005 movie adaptation of your beloved novel. The film starred Keira Knightley as the spirited and quick-witted, Elizabeth Bennet and Matthew MacFadyen as the brooding, handsome and somewhat socially awkward, Fitzwilliam Darcy. It is also worth noting that this film adaptation is a hotly contested topic amongst Janeites; some absolutely love it, whilst others vehemently loath it! There aren't many who take the middle road on this subject, so if a gentle reader should ever find themselves in the midst of a discussion regarding it...proceed at your own peril. Personally, this movie holds a special place in my heart as it was my first introduction to you, Jane. I am also of the opinion that, despite a few, small flaws, the acting performances were wonderful, the cinematography was gorgeous and the score is timeless. In fact, it is a soundtrack that I still listen to on a regular basis. So that's that and I can now tell you all about: 

My day at Pemberley...

The brave driver!

It was a bright and warm Tuesday morning, when my sister, Rachael, and I awoke with the rising York sun in order to ready ourselves for a most exciting day. It was on this day, the seventh of August, that we were travelling via rented chaise (car*) to Chatsworth House in Derbyshire. After dressing in our best outfits, we walked to the Shambles for coffee and sausage rolls only to find that the Pie shop was not yet open...Curses! Luckily, another bakery was open close by and we got our sausage rolls (along with other pastries- when in York, gentle reader!) and coffee for our momentous morning commute. We then called for a hired coach to convey us to the train station where we were to pick up our reserved chaise (car*). Luckily for us, Rachael is most adept at driving in foreign countries and she got us there safely and unscathed, despite confusing road signs, perilous roundabouts and having to drive on the "wrong" side of the road. Once we were out of the city, we drove for about two hours through the beautiful countryside and along windy, magical roads. Naturally, it was a glorious ride for me as I was able to soak up the sights but Rachael had the difficult task of concentrating on the road before her. How lucky I am to have such a brave and kind sister!

My dream of the seeing the English countryside was coming true! 

Not excited at all...clearly.

My anticipation and excitement were building with each passing moment, Jane. I must confess that we had initially been on the fence about making the trip because we were worried we wouldn't have enough time in York, but I can state now, with absolute certainty, that going was the best choice we could have made. In truth, the only way I can properly describe seeing Chatsworth, as it appeared upon the horizon, is with a quote from Pride & Prejudice. And yes, I had a copy of the novel at the ready throughout the day. Please note, in the following quotation, 'Elizabeth' should be read as 'Amanda.' 

"Elizabeth's mind was too full for conversation, but she saw and admired every remarkable spot and point of view. They gradually ascended for half a mile, and then found themselves at the top of a considerable eminence, where the wood ceased, and the eye was instantly caught by Pemberley House, situated on the opposite side of a valley, into which the road, with some abruptness, wound. It was a large, handsome, stone building, standing well on rising ground, and backed by a ridge of high woody hills; -- and in front, a stream of some natural importance was swelled into greater, but without any artificial appearance. Its banks were neither formal, nor falsely adorned. Elizabeth was delighted. She had never seen a place for which nature had done more, or where natural beauty had been so little counteracted by an awkward taste. They were all of them warm in their admiration; and at that moment she felt that to be mistress of Pemberley might be something!"

Approaching
Chatsworth!

I do not mean to sound pretentious, but unless you have seen it, I cannot even begin to tell you how perfectly this passage puts into words what it's like to come upon Chatsworth for the first time. Your words are brilliant gems, Jane, that will forever stand the test of time. Needless to say, though, I was beside myself. Rachael was too, in her own way (she is able to master her emotions in situations such as this, whereas I am not). But, truly, we were both speechless for a moment or two as we drove towards the magnificent facade...that is, before I began incessantly giggling as though I were Lydia Bennet. When at Chatsworth, gentle readers.

Welcome back, Jane!

Now, Jane, I regret that I did not mention this before, but I wanted to inform my gentle readers that it's generally believed you may have visited Chatsworth House in 1811 and even based Pemberley on it. I can only assume then, that filmmakers of the above mentioned 2005 Pride & Prejudice did their homework on you (which makes me like it even more). That being said, I made sure to bring your portrait with me so that you could visit it again, two-hundred and seven years later. (I never said I wasn't a crazy #booknerd, readers.) Your description of Pemberley is just too perfect for you not to have been there!

I haven't even gotten to the part where we parked the car yet- my apologies! Fortunately, nothing much exciting happened at that point so I shall skip ahead to the exciting moment when we entered the grounds of Pemberley. *AHEM* I mean, Chatsworth.

Walking through the gate and onto the grounds was quite a moving experience and we needed a moment to just take in our surroundings and breath in the intoxicating scent of history imbued with legendary, fictional characters. I bet you are wondering what such a mixture smells like, gentle readers, but I daresay it is impossible to describe. (It was probably just the smell freshly cut grass...shhh!)

After our wide-eyed reflection, it was time to get our itinerary in order. I am not ashamed to say that I insisted our entire day revolve around the fact that the Emperor Fountain would only be turned on from 3:00-4:00 in the afternoon, due to the extreme drought they were experiencing. I wanted to see that fountain on, Jane, for it was an iconic image of Pemberley already seared in my mind. Just to reiterate, I could not leave without seeing it! Anyway, the first thing we did was sign up for a short morning tour of the Belvedere tower, which had only recently been opened up to the public. Then, thanks to the good advice of the gentleman who printed our tickets at the entrance, we decided it was best to do some strolling outdoors whilst the day was still relatively cool, before exploring inside the house. And finally, we signed up for one more tour: the garden buggy tour at 3:45 PM (which I prayed would coincide with seeing the fountain). You probably know Rachael and I as well as we know ourselves by now, Jane and gentle readers, so naturally you should know that if there was an opportunity to explore the expansive gardens without doing so on foot, we were all for it! Obviously, it was the best four pounds we ever spent. More on that charming garden experience in a little while. 

It turned out that we had about forty minutes before our tour of the Belvedere tower so we took that opportunity to take our initial stroll of the grounds. Happily, our excursion happened at a perfect time for the sun was low and the crowds were few! As you can imagine, Chatsworth House hosts hundreds of tourists a day, so to get an unobstructed view of the house and have a "straight-up" photo shoot in front of it, for upwards of fifteen minutes, is nothing short of a miracle in tourist time, Jane.

There are more pictures of me because, in the interest of being honest, I probably demanded them. They don't call me, "Demanda" for nothing, Jane! (Just kidding, hopefully 'they' don't call me that!) But speaking of "Demanda," I was getting so excited and overzealous that Rachael and I got into our first (and only!) tiff of the day. Upon reflection, I would have to say our little argument was my fault...and I am sure Rachael would agree. I believe it stemmed from the fact that I was very particular about how I wanted my photo taken and started to get the *teeniest* bit rude about her photography technique. Part of me was/is ashamed of my behavior whilst the other part of me said, "This very well may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, Rachael. TAKE MY PICSHA, DAMMIT!" Rachael is not one to suffer misplaced and poorly executed excitement so we each stormed off in opposite directions, her to the right and me to the left. Elizabeth Bennet would have had a good laugh, I daresay. Our chosen paths ended up taking us around the large reservoir in front of the house, albeit in opposite directions, but it was just my luck that my route was uphill whilst Rachael's was entirely on flat ground. I have the pictures to prove it, Jane.

The tiny speck that was Rachael
as seen from atop my hill! I am so glad
I had the foresight to take this picture.

Yours Faithfully, Amanda...atop her
hill feeling confident that the sisterly spat
would be over once they inevitably met
in the middle. Also, she is slightly
 mad she had to walk up a hill.

See, we made up! 
Our fights don't 
ever last long. :) 

-------------------------------------------

The Belvedere Tower

Now, then, after our fun-filled photos, fight, flight and subsequent friendship reinstatement, it was time to head back to the entrance for our tour of the Belvedere Tower! It's always an adventure with the Forker sisters, Jane.

View from above!

Unfortunately, I don't remember all of the history about the tower but it was newly renovated and the views were stunning. Also, our guide was delightful and very well informed. The fact that I can't remember much is much more a reflection on me than it is on him. Additionally, I must say, it was rather fun to walk on a roof! One could see for miles up there...

Bess.

After our charming tour, it was finally time to make our way inside the House, and by this point I was ready to burst with happy anticipation. I was going inside PEMBERLEY (Chatsworth*)! As one enters inside, one encounters a lovely vestibule with a portrait of Elizabeth (known as Bess of Hardwick), the Countess of Shrewsbury. Bess's second husband was Sir William Cavendish, and it is from their line that the current Duke of Cavendish descends. Basically, we have Bess to thank for the existence and legacy of Chatsworth House. #FemalesAreStrongAsHell (Excuse the modern and roguish language that is littered throughout this letter, Jane!) Whilst the vestibule was all well and good, the true surprise comes when one turns a corner, walks down a hallway and comes upon the entryway to END ALL ENTRYWAYS. The gilded stairs, the painted walls and ceilings, the balconies...Oh My! It was all so glorious!

Stunning, isn't it? I didn't want to leave this glorious place, but alas, we had to move on. As I walked up the golden staircase, I was simultaneously thinking "to be mistress of Pemberley might be something!" but also, "Don't you dare trip walking up these stairs, Amanda." After we walked up a couple of grand staircases, we entered a room that was home to a haunting angel statue that was on my list of Pride & Prejudice things-to-see. In the movie, Elizabeth approaches this exact statue whilst she and her aunt and uncle are touring Pemberley. The only difference between my experience and Ms. Bennet's was that she could get as close to the angel as she wanted (not fair). I, however, was separated by rope. Those were the ONLY differences. (A girl can dream...) In all seriousness, though, it is a beautiful statue.

My 1st Elizabeth Bennet
 moment!

The part of the library we
were not allowed
 to go in. Valid.

BOOKS!

We then passed through a few beautiful rooms and hallways before coming to the library. For some reason, I had no notion that we would see a library during our visit. How could I not have anticipated there being a stunning, book-filled, dream library, Jane? Well, needless to say, I was floored and just wanted to stay there for the rest of the day. It was truly unbelievable. Just to add to the beautiful moment in my life that was standing in the Chatsworth House Library, it was made known that museum-goers were allowed to play on the piano that was stationed in the aforementioned beautiful library. Ooh, girl, when a child started playing "This is Me" from the cinema smash, "The Greatest Showman," Rachael and I lost it. You had better believe we started singing (very, very quietly; we are ladies, after all. Although, upon further reflection, we were probably not that quiet.)

After the library, we came to our senses and proceeded in an orderly fashion to view the rest of the house, which was just as awe-inspiring. From the grand bedrooms, sitting rooms and dining rooms to the throne room that was created centuries ago just in case a monarch should one day visit...(none ever did). It was all just so amazing to see, Jane. I sincerely hope to go back someday!

My darling, 
Mr. Darcy.

Finally, we came upon an entire room of statues (just like in the Pride & Prejudice, '05) and I was looking high and low for the crown jewel: The bust of Mr. Darcy...or rather, the bust of Matthew MacFadyen who played Mr. Darcy. I should have known that they would not keep this *priceless artifact* with all the other priceless artifacts, though. No, Mr. Darcy earned his own special spot...on a pedestal in the gift shop. Chuckle.Out.Loud. You can be sure that I was living my best life once I found him, Jane. 



After I posed with Mr. Darcy for far too long, we meandered through the gift shop, eyeing all the things we (I*) wanted to buy after the conclusion of our buggy tour that afternoon. Truthfully, by the time we finished in the house and shop, we were quite famished (as you can imagine) so we made our way to a lovely restaurant on the premise called the "Cavendish restaurant."  We had a delicious light lunch and refreshing adult beverages. Rachael had her favorite, a Pimm's Cup, whilst I had a nice, cold glass of white wine.

Beautiful sissy at
Cavendish restaurant!

Delicious.

At the conclusion of our lunch, we made our way back towards the entrance to catch our buggy (adorable golf cart*) for our final activity of the day: exploring the gardens (but not before each grabbing an ice cream cone, first. Priorities, Jane.) As Chatsworth House is known for its stunning grounds, one should not skip surveying them! I only wish I had written down the names of our guides, as they were such charming and well-informed ladies. We shared our 'buggy' with guests of a much older generation and we were definitely the youngest on board. In our defense, it was hot out and we were tired and ladies should never overexert themselves in the heat if they don't want to.

Delightful view of the
fountain. But not the
one I wanted.

Anyway, the tour began and we were driving along a beautiful path, when I started getting nervous that I wouldn't get the full view that I wanted of the fountain before it shut off. Unfortunately, once I get these ideas in my head, Jane, I don't let them go. There we were, about to turn a corner, AWAY FROM THE FOUNTAIN, when I begged one of our kind tour guides to hold the cart whilst I ran down the hill to get my picture and see the, dare I say it again, fountain. I'm sure everyone thought I was out of my mind, but they acquiesced none-the-less! I've no doubt that I was a sight for sore eyes as I bumbled down the hill, camera swinging from my neck, trying not to topple over and roll the rest of the way down. You should know that I don't usually run (unless it's for my life) but I don't regret it in the slightest because I saw the fountain in all it's glory against the facade of Chatsworth House. And at the end of it all, I had a true Elizabeth Bennet moment running down a hill on the grounds of Pemberley (Chatsworth*) in one of my favorite dresses!

There were costumed
characters along
 the path
and everything!

Totally worth the run.

Rachael and our
charming buggy group!

Once I returned from my jaunt down the hill, the tour continued and we went on to view spectacular gardens, statues and green spaces. I only wish we could have spent a longer time doing so! Additionally, I can not reiterate how lovely our guides were; they answered all of our questions, had lovely anecdotes to share along the way, and even hugged us when it was all over! I was in heaven and did not want to leave. Sadly, however, the time to depart was drawing near...

A final picture!

Darcy is what the youths 
call my "BAE."
Before.Anyone.Else.

After disembarking from our buggy we made our purchases from the gift shop and had another look around before heading back to our chaise (car*). I was forlorn at the thought of leaving but I knew it was a day of memories that I would keep close to my heart for years to come. 

And so ended my day at Pemberley, Jane. 

Once we departed from Chatsworth House, we drove to the neighboring town of Bakewell, but I will tell you about that in my next letter so as not to take up anymore of your time at present. Thank you for indulging in my fond recollections, gentle readers!

Yours Faithfully,

Amanda

Image of 2005 Pride & Prejudice: This image is not my own. https://www.directv.com/movies/Pride-Prejudice-Z09EUy9JdWRpYnQ5RTFCanQwcnZWZz09