“...and if a rainy morning deprived them of other enjoyments, they were still resolute in meeting in defiance of wet and dirt, and shut themselves up, to read novels together."

*My heart is broken for the victims of the recent mass shootings in El Paso, TX & Dayton, OH. Please take a moment of silence for them and their loved ones today.*

Thursday 1 August 2019- 6 Tuesday August 2019
The Internet, Connecticut

Dear Jane,

I must confess that I am quite frustrated with myself. I am just going to write everything else that happened in Cartagena no matter how long it takes or how long this letter is as a result, so please excuse the self-indulgence that is this letter. In truth, much has happened since we returned from Colombia that I have completely ignored (and now nearly forgotten). For one thing, my family and I saw American Ballet Theater's adaptation of Jane Eyre at the Metropolitan Opera House in June starring none other than the incomparable MISTY COPELAND as Jane Eyre, herself! 

It was an absolutely breathtaking performance and I am so glad we had the opportunity to see it. Additionally, my darling nephew turned two years old and is just the sweetest little boy in the world. How have I not written about these?! Without a doubt, they were highlights of The-Year-of-our-Lord, two-thousand and nineteen. This lack of writing is a common occurrence with me, though (forgive me, for I am about to DELVE). I truly want to write about my various experiences, but I shudder at the thought of having to write every single detail (which is a rule that I inflict upon myself for no reason) and then I end up writing nothing at all. Unfortunately, if I do not finish writing about one experience, I am unable to write about the next. In truth, it is a most vicious cycle, Jane. I wonder how you dealt with writer's block (which is what I assume this is)? Anyway, I just wanted to give you some insight as to why it has taken me so long to write about my holiday this past May...but I digress. *Must continue writing even though the thought of writing all the details makes me not want to write* Let us continue! 

 Tuesday 21 May 2019

As the quotation above suggests, we did indeed endure a rainy morning whilst in Cartagena. How fortuitous, though, that a moment from Northanger Abbey would suit this letter to a tea! In truth, it almost made me giddy when I found this passage because it could not describe that particular morning in Cartagena more perfectly. 

We knew going into this trip that rain would be a possibility as we were arriving at the start of Cartagena's wet season, so when it arrived in full force on our second morning... we were actually not that mad about it. Whilst eating another exquisite breakfast, we could not dismiss the fact that we were in the midst of a mild, Caribbean tempest. In truth, though, it was quite delightful to eat outside with the warm wind blowing and a torrent of rain upon the covered terrace we were situated under. I learned that day that happiness, to me, is eating breakfast and drinking coffee outside whilst it is raining without getting wet. Where was I going with this? Ah, yes...

We had, the day prior, made plans to visit Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas (a prodigious fortress built by the Spanish during the Colonial era) on this particular morning, but decided to "go with the flow" and modify our engagements. I confess that at times I've been known to be rather headstrong when it comes to changing travel plans, but even Rachael will say how well I adapted to our circumstances. After all, one cannot control the weather, Jane. 

Anyhow, we were sitting in comfortable chairs in a covered, open air hallway at the Hotel Caribe, ready to call for a chaise and four (some call this a "taxi") when we both decided it would be better to wait out the rain instead of hoping it stopped by the time we arrived at San Felipe de Barajas. And now I come to our "Northanger Abbey" moment. After making our decision, we had the brilliant idea to instead go back to our room, collect our respective books and return to the covered breakfast terrace to read, enjoy more coffee and eat second breakfast. I know... best morning EVER. And so, quite literally this happened: “...and if a rainy morning deprived them of other enjoyments, they were still resolute in meeting in defiance of wet and dirt, and shut themselves up, to read novels together." 

One might be surprised to learn how often Rachael and I decide things at the same time without having to actually talk much about it (this happened in York when we both wanted to pass on taking a tour of York Minster). It is so lovely to travel with a kindred spirit and sister!

After countless more cups of coffee, local pastries, pages read, and no toucan sightings (it still eluded me), the rain finally ceased and we decided upon our plan for the rest of the day: we were to venture into the city and roam about whilst taking advantage of the fact that the sun was not beating down upon us. Happily, all of the prior events occurred before noon so we still had ample time to enjoy our day. We soon called for a chaise and four and were on our way to the Walled City, which is the historic center of the Cartagena. (Side note: I may have forgotten to mention in my previous letters that the Hotel Caribe is located in the Bocagrande neighborhood so it is only a short ten minute ride to the city.)

And now, a list of our endeavors (with explanations) whilst we explored the Walled City of Cartagena:

• The Emerald Museum at Caribe Jewelry- This lovely museum was our first stop and free of charge so we figured we would learn more about the importance of emeralds in Colombia. Spoiler Alert: Emeralds are exceedingly important in Colombia and are one of the country's most precious exports. This was a most informative and well-curated exhibit.

• Took Pictures- This is self-explanatory, but this particular photo truly does the day justice. Photo credit goes to my sister, Rachael, for capturing this splendid moment in all of my tourist photographer glory.

• Street Mango- I still have dreams of the sliced mango we ate, Jane. We finally bought fruit from a street vendor and were not disappointed in the least. It was, quite literally, the best mango I've ever eaten.

• Walking Along City Walls- For those who do not know, the walls of the 'Walled City' surround a large section of Cartagena. Happily, we were able to stroll along a small portion of them and see some beautiful and popular sights (like the Colombian flag situated at Cafe del Mar) whilst walking. I must tell you, though, as we were departing the wall by a downhill incline (oxymoron?), I discovered that my new sandals had no traction at all and as a result, I slid down it like I was on ice skates! It was quite shocking, to be sure, and luckily I did not fall. And, it should be noted, since it was drizzling, I was softly singing "A Little Fall of Rain" from Les Miserables to myself (as one does in such situations) so I was even more caught off guard when I started to glide. Naturally, this made the moment all the more dramatic (or rather, comical) but one should never not sing whilst it is raining, Jane. But also, one should never not wear appropriate shoes whilst travelling upon ancient walls.

• Ábaco Libros y Café- Naturally, this bookstore had long been on my list of places to visit whilst in Cartagena. This shop, with it's wide selection of books, colorful walls and unique architecture is definitely worth stopping in. Not only did we purchase a book for our sweet nephew, but I bought a delightful iced latte whilst inside. With books and coffee, how could it not be a pleasant (and necessary) relief from the humidity outside?

• Shopping-  Though I risk attracting emerald thieves, I wish to tell you about our shopping excursion, Jane. So, there we were, having already been to the emerald museum and getting the "emerald itch," as I like to call it (I just made that up) when we both decided we wanted to buy a piece of jewelry containing the gem. I must confess that ahead of arriving in Colombia, I researched reputable emerald shops known for having fair prices and came upon Lucy's, which is where we ended up making our purchases. I cannot recommend this establishment enough as the selection was impressive (with a wide range of prices 😉) and the employees were both helpful and kind. Now, before gentle readers believe the Forker sisters to be some sort of heiresses who go around buying jewels, I would like it known that, except for various local sweets, this was really the only memento I bought whilst on holiday. Why purchase useless bric-a-brac when I can buy one lovely token? Anyhow, I settled on an elegant, silver ring, which, considering the small yet precious stone it possessed, was reasonably priced. Rachael, having more luxurious tastes, bought a handsome pair of emerald earrings set in gold. Needless to say, we were overjoyed with our selections!

• Street Food- We had a range of cheesy, fried street foods this afternoon. Some were good but others were...not great. We learned an important lesson that day, Jane: Not all arepas are good arepas. 

• Happy Hour- A little later on in the afternoon, we happened upon a lovely establishment that was serving two-for-the-price-of-one margaritas! Whilst we both had delicious drinks, Rachael opted for the coconut flavored margarita. Of course, once I tasted hers, I was green with envy, Jane. TRAVEL TIP: Always get the coconut flavored margarita.

• Siesta- As it had thus far been a long day, we decided to venture back to the Hotel Caribe for a siesta and to freshen up before dinner. Happily, instead of staying in, we actually made it back into the city this time! 

• Dinner at Cuba 1940- After walking around Plaza San Diego for a spell, we happened upon this charming restaurant and found the food offerings to be quite satisfactory. Luckily, even though it was a busy night, we were quickly shown to a lovely table outside. Not only did we have absolutely delicious food and drinks, but throughout our meal there was an endless stream of vendors, performers and horse carriages. To be sure, it was a most engrossing experience. One of the many groups that approached our table, was a band of accomplished rappers. I believe at one point, they said something along the lines of "You are a queen but she is the boss!" They referred to me as the queen and Rachael as the boss...which elicited giggles from us both as they were spot on! We also bought a local sweet from a woman who was not afraid to tell us exactly how much she wanted for her confections. Cartagena is a most exuberant city, Jane!

• The Great Mime Incident of 2019-  I am chuckling to myself just thinking about it, but this moment will forever live in sister vacation history. So, there we were, strolling through the streets after dinner near the Puerta del Reloj (the main entrance to the walled city and very crowded with vendors, tourists and such) when out of the corner of my eye I saw a mime performing. I thought nothing of it and so said nothing at the time; this turned out to be a mistake, Jane. Anyhow, the mime soon spotted Rachael and decided to use her as his next audience member. It all happened rather quickly, but suddenly the mime, from behind, touched Rachael on her shoulder to begin his performance when she let out a mighty scream, saying something along the line of, "WHAT ARE YOU DOING!" Obviously, both parties were shocked and the mime quickly hurried away looking penitent and rather frightened. I will never forget the fearful look on HIS face- poor dear! Rachael felt very badly indeed for alarming him, but she too was startled; it is a wonder no one (i.e. me) swooned. Clearly, we were the wrong pair to approach, however, I do hope the mime continues his miming ventures... just not whilst we are near!

I'm continuing on, Jane! Though I shall do my utmost to not drag on, I make no promises.

Wednesday 22 May 2019: “I walk: I prefer walking.” ~Anne Elliot (and my sister, Rachael)


We were blessed with a bright, sunny morning on our third full day in Cartagena so we took the opportunity to breakfast early and go right to Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. Many travel websites recommended exploring the fortress in the morning before it gets too hot, so that is precisely what we did. It quickly became evident that visitors are almost completely exposed to direct sunlight with only various tunnels for shelter. As someone who loves ancient tunnels, however, I was quite happy to accept this prudent advice. 

Even though it was exceedingly hot throughout the course of our morning at the castle/fortress, it was quite an impressive sight to behold. For one thing, it is a vastly prodigious structure with a most storied past. I highly recommend a trip to this famous keep if you find yourself in Cartagena...especially if you like mysterious corridors and have a wild imagination! That is not to say that one should not learn the history of San Felipe de Barajas before visiting (or take a guided tour whilst you are there) for it is a staple of Cartagena's interesting and, at times, troubled history.

Once it became too hot to continue on and we'd had our fill of exploring & taking photos, we were ready to move on to our next adventure. But much like Frodo Baggins and Samwise Gamgee on their quest to destroy the One Ring, we too encountered danger on our journey. This moment of our trip I call, The Great Intersection Incident of 2019. 

As Rachael is the city-dweller and the risk taker of the family, she wanted to walk to our next destination, Getsemani, instead of taking a hired coach. I was weary of this because, a) I am not a great lover of walking; b) It was exceedingly hot; and c) We did not actually know how to get to the Getsemani neighborhood; we just knew the general direction in which it laid. But my dear sister, like Anne Elliot, was all, "I walk: I prefer walking." I had no choice in the matter, Jane. Anyhow, we began our expedition, of course with a phone out for directions, when it became abundantly clear that we had no idea where we were and were also not in the safest of areas. Before long, we found ourselves at an exceedingly busy intersection with almost no traffic stops, lights, crosswalks or lanes. There was a bridge ahead that we thought we should take but we had no way of getting there. Also, at this point, I had walked ahead and Rachael was still leagues behind me, stopped in conversation with a man not of our acquaintance. There I was dramatically calling, "RACHAEL!" over and over again from a nearby petrol station when finally she came over to me. She explained to me that the gentleman was giving her directions but also some very important advice. If my memory is correct, this is close to what she told me he said: "You are a tourist, yes? You must put your phone away because this is not a safe neighborhood. I love tourists and we want you to come back." There truly is kindness everywhere, Jane. Anyhow, there we were with our phones away, and no closer to crossing the bridge. We stood at the intersection for what felt like ages and began bickering about what to do next.I, for one, was paralyzed with fear so I was no help at all. The stream of cars and scooters was constant and they were flying past us! Finally, Rachael hailed a cab (my apologies for so often switching between modern terms for automobiles and various forms of Regency conveyance) and we got away. See? It WAS just like Frodo's quest. 

Before long, however, our driver asked us where we were going and because we were fatigued and had limited Spanish, we had trouble giving directions. Happily, and surprisingly, my memory soon kicked into gear. In truth, I was quite proud of myself at this moment. I remembered the night prior, before we found Cuba 1940, we attempted to visit a restaurant in a different neighborhood that we had seen good reviews on, but found when we arrived that they were closed for a private event. We then wandered around a little, and I made note of a café I saw, called Ohlala (which was already on my list of establishments to visit) but did not think much of it at the time. Back to the taxi: I somehow recognized the area we were in and was able to ask the driver to bring us to the café. Huzzah! Our quest ended with a lovely air-conditioned respite, a second breakfast consisting of fresh mango & yogurt and the most delectable iced coffee either of us had ever tasted. It was almost as if Rachael was Frodo during this ordeal and I was Samwise. Also, thank goodness for Google Translator.

Once we composed ourselves, cooled down and had our fill of some delicious provisions, we began our next undertaking for the day: viewing the famous street art of Getsemani. We both were looking forward to this venture enormously as we'd heard of the neighborhood's renown. I do believe the best way to describe what we saw is through pictures, so please enjoy my selection!


Not on only did we photograph the art, though, Jane and gentle readers, we also had an *influencer* photo-shoot. Now, for those who do not frequent travel blogs or pinterest, I shall now tell you exactly how to take vacation photographs worthy of an influencer:

1. Find a colorful wall, door or window.
2. Stand against said wall, door or window.
3. Wear a fashionable hat if possible.
4. Look down at your feet and tilt your head at a 67° angle.
5. DON'T LOOK AT THE CAMERA.
6. Smile like you have a secret. Perhaps the secret is that you have no secret.
7. Repeat at a new location.
8. Laugh at yourself a little bit.

As the afternoon wore on, the heat was once again taking it's toll on us and our desire to take photos ceased. However, we still had two things on our list of things still to do:

• I was adamant that we find a certain picturesque, narrow, umbrella-lined street that I'd seen on the Instagram; it was a necessity.
• Locate a particular juice stand known for it's amazing, authentic and affordable jugos naturales.

We nearly gave up on the first, but finally found it *organically*! When I say "organically," I mean that we found it without looking for it after having completely given up on finding it. It was very magical, Jane. We also found our way to the second and the jugos were perfect. In truth, at that point in the day we were running on empty so we flagged down another equipage and returned to our hotel for a siesta before our dinner reservation that evening. 

Following our respite, we dressed in our finest garments and went once more into the city for we were to have a very special meal that night to celebrate a most wondrous occasion: Rachael's new job! It had been a long hiring process and she had only been given the good news that she'd been hired a day or so before we left for our trip. Naturally, I wanted to treat my dear sister to an exceptional meal at one of the most distinguished, french dining establishments in the city, Restaurante 1621, to congratulate her. We'll return to that dazzling experience in just a moment.

 As this was our last evening in Colombia, we decided to return to the city with enough time to finish a few things on our (my) Cartagena "to-do" list before dinner. This list included: Purchasing local sweets from the Portal de Dulces; getting our pictures taken with the famed Palenqueras (fruit sellers) and finding small keepsakes for a few friends and family members. The Portal de Dulces (which is an outdoor corridor lined with vendors selling various local confectionery treats) was heaven for a lady with a sweet tooth as profound as mine. I found some delightful treats and at one point I thought I scored a good deal on some of them. It turned out, however, that counting is hard and I just "haggled" to pay the exact asking price. LOL. One should note that bargaining is part of the culture in Cartagena and all vendors expect to negotiate prices. That being said, bargaining is not my strongest skill, so I just usually paid the asking price for things whilst on this trip. At least I tried, though, Jane!

Next on our list was a staple of tourism in Cartagena: Taking photos with the Palenqueras.  Palenqueras are women clad in brightly colored dresses who are from a small town called San Basilio de Palenque. They interact with tourists, pose for pictures with tourists and sell the most amazing array of tropical fruit that they cut up right in front of you. I highly recommend you visit Culture Trip for a look into their fascinating history: "Being direct descendants of the world’s first free African slaves, the Palenqueras represent an incredible feat of human resistance, the respected figure of courageous, hard-working mothers, and a still living and thriving Afro-Caribbean heritage." 

Luckily, as we were in a popular tourist area, there was a large group of Palenqueras stationed quite close to the Portal de Dulces, so we took this opportunity to ask for a photo. It was quite crowded, loud and hard to communicate so Rachael and I ended up agreeing to each purchase bowls of their fresh fruit as well as take photos. When in Cartagena, right, Jane? At one point afterwards, Rachael and I got in some sort of argument but as usual, neither of us can remember what it was about...we got over it soon enough and continued on to our last stop before dinner: Las Bovedas. 

Las Bovedas

This long row of shops, converted from military vaults that used to hold munition, is basically the souvenir center of Cartagena. There were so many shops to venture into but it was exceedingly hot in every one of them. Eventually, after sweating off all of the sweet fruit we'd just eaten, we found lovely trinkets for our friends & family and finally began our trek to dinner. (Even after all of that we were still a little early once we arrived to the restaurant, so we got a drink at a nearby saloon to bide our time. I know, another unnecessary detail.)

And now for the day's grand finale: An evening at the fanciest of restaurants where we enjoyed one of the finest dining experiences I have ever had thus far during my thirty years on earth....

We finally arrived to Restaurante 1621 (which is located in the Sofitel Santa Clara hotel) and were immediately taken in by its exquisitely beautiful interior. From the exotic indoor vegetation to the open air patio and unique architecture & decor, it was difficult to find words to describe how in awe we were of our surroundings. (In truth, I was also worried that it would be a much more expensive meal than I anticipated.) As I had made a reservation, we were quickly shown to our seats in an ornately decorated room (which I just learned used to be a dining room for nuns) and took a moment to observe our surroundings. We dared not speak above a whisper, Jane, for the mood was one of serene fanciness. 

Before long, our hostess offered us a choice between still or sparkling water (obviously, we chose sparkling) and then a sommelier (I assume) offered to take our wine order. We settled on a crisp and refreshing white wine, which I do not remember the name of, and I was beginning to feel what it was like to live "the high life." Next, a gentleman approached our table with a basket of freshly baked breads for us to choose from...but also a small, wooden case filled with rows of individual, uniquely-flavored butters. I chose a garlic butter and also a coffee-infused butter. It was like we were experiencing food heaven, Jane. At this point I said to myself, "To hell with the price- we are on vacation!" 

After placing our meal orders with another waiter, we were still in awe of our good fortunes when we were each brought a small plate of salmon tartare, compliments of the chef! Those who know me will be surprised to learn that I actually tried this dish, which consisted of raw fish, and did not completely loath it! Of course, I would not be so rude as to not try it; one does not simply turn down a dish from the chef which has come with his compliments. However, sometimes a taste is just enough, so I sagaciously slid the remainder of mine over to Rachael for her to finish as she was blissfully happy with this delightful and unexpected treat. 

When our meals arrived, we were eagerly anticipating what was in store for us. Once again, we were not disappointed. Rachael got some sort of creamy, seafood dish and I ordered a heavenly meat dish of sorts. (I would have taken a picture of the menu, but Rachael was very much against my acting the part of tourist whilst we were within the dining room.) It matters not that I don't remember the name of what I had, for I shall never forget how I felt eating it: incandescently happy. Even though we savored every bite, our plates were soon cleared and taken away and we were offered a dessert menu. We had come this far, Jane; why not go the distance?

Rachael ordered a "A chocolate shell fashioned into a coconut with coconut custard and mango inside." For myself, I requested their chocolate cake which came with berries and a scoop of homemade cappuccino ice cream. If that was not enough, they brought out a complimentary plate of sweets and pastries, too! I honestly just did not know what to do, Jane. We were living large and loving life. I think my heart has begun to race just thinking about it all again.

Finally, the check came...and... IT.WAS.SOOOOOOOO.AFFORDABLE. I know, I could not believe it either. I do not wish to be unladylike so I shall not divulge the price, but just know it was the best shock ever. I know this is a rather anticlimactic end to the story, but reasonably priced outings make experiences more wonderful, don't you agree? It was my fondest wish that my sister have a special evening in honor of her accomplishments whilst not breaking the bank entirely! If all of that was not enough, they sent us out with complimentary cookies in lovely, gold bags. FIN.

Thursday 23 May 2019

On our last morning in Cartagena, we awoke and made our way down to breakfast once more when suddenly, standing directly before me on the path to the terrace was none other than... A TOUCAN! The delightful, little bird was nonchalantly standing near a staff member who was preparing pots of coffee, almost as though this was something it did every morning. It was, quite literally, the cutest and silliest thing I have ever seen. The end.

Just kidding; I have just a bit more left to say.

Anyhow, after having had one more enchanting breakfast, we returned to our room in order to gather our things. It need not be mentioned that we were leaving with ample time to spare before our flight at my bidding; Rachael was very kind to oblige me, but, again, we had no way of knowing what security would be like or how long it would all take. Naturally, all went smoothly and we had time in which to relax and drink one more cup of coffee before heading into the terminal. I was quite sad to leave such a beautiful place, especially after having such a tremendous time, but one is always happy to return home after a holiday.

Unfortunately, we arrived in Miami to the news that our flight to Hartford was going to be delayed. Whilst this is unwelcome news to any weary traveler, we took advantage of our additional time and had supper at a charming airport pub; it was exactly the thing we needed, Jane. After our meal, we were more than ready to continue the rest of our journey home...only to find that our flight had once again been delayed. We bore the news as best as we were able (I jest- we were fine) and patiently waited until we could board. 

After a long flight back to Hartford, we finally arrived to Bradley International Airport. All was well...except for the fact that I was waiting and waiting but my luggage never appeared! I was informed that it had been rerouted to Charlotte, North Carolina for unknown reasons and would soon be in transit to Hartford. It was very late by this point (technically, early, as it was after midnight) so I opened a claim to have my trunk (suitcase) delivered the next day and  we made our way outside to wait for the shuttle that would bring us to my car. Rachael said she was very impressed with how well I took the news. A short while later, we arrived at my car, where it was submerged in a very large puddle, and proceeded to complete the last part of our journey home. Unfortunately, my lace vacation shoes became sodden as I entered my car due to said puddle, but at that point I cared very little! Except for the small hiccoughs that occurred in those final hours of the trip, we had the most wonderful time. It would have been dreadfully boring if nothing at all went wrong. 

And so, here ends our adventure in Cartagena. I feel so very grateful and fortunate to have had this holiday with my sister (and am happy to report that my luggage was delivered the very next day). Thank you for sticking with me through this epic saga and until next time, I remain...

Yours Faithfully,

Amanda