England Part Five: "Oh! do not attack me with your watch. A watch is always too fast or too slow. I cannot be dictated to by a watch."
December 7, 2018
Dear Jane,
At this point, it is utterly ridiculous that I have not finished recounting my tales of England from this past AUGUST (I am truly ashamed), but I am determined to finish never-the-less. After all, it is never too late to tell your favorite, 18th-century authoress about your holiday that took place five months prior. So without further ado, I give you: England Part Five.
When last I left you, Rachael and I had arrived in York, checked into the Black Swan Inn and partook in a delightful ghost tour of the city with our guide, Mark. To be sure, our trip was going too fast; I couldn't believe we only had a few days left. I found myself being every bit as dramatic as Mary Crawford when she exclaimed the above quotation in Mansfield Park. I wanted time to stop so I could stay in York forever!
Unfortunately, however, Rachael and I WERE dictated by a watch and the next day was Monday, the sixth of August (exactly five months ago as of yesterday...how fortuitous). We were more than ready to go into full explorer mode and discover the city's greatest secrets...and snickelways. I do hope you haven't forgotten what snickelways are, gentle readers. If perchance you have, I refer you back to England Part Four.
We awoke bright and early and went straight to the Shambles, which is truly one of the most magical streets on Earth. If one ever has the opportunity to traverse the Shambles before the shops open and the crowds descend, one must take it because an empty street that dates back to the 14th Century is, quite literally, what dreams are made of. Picture, if you will, a narrow, cobblestone street, void of people, lined with quaint shops on either side whilst the smell of freshly baked pies lingers in the air. Are you in your happy place, Jane? I know I am. Anyway, we spent time just walking up and down the street; it was exceedingly charming. Did you know that the Shambles was (were?) reportedly J.K. Rowling's inspiration for the book version of Diagon Alley in Harry Potter? I could immediately see why because again, it is just that magical. Potterheads should note that there are multiple wizarding world themed stores on the street, one of which is called, "The Shop That Must Not Be Named." Brilliant.
With the promise that we would return to the Shambles at every possible opportunity, we made our way back to the Black Swan for breakfast. I know I need not repeat how important meals were, Jane, but because our time in York was so limited, we had a very set schedule. Needless to say, that schedule included experiencing a Full English Breakfast at our charming inn. In truth, I had never before indulged in a full English breakfast but I enjoyed it more than I thought I would. Rachael was on cloud nine, of course.
After breakfast we had to make the difficult decision of whether or not to purchase York City Passes for the day. (These are popular passes that allow tourists to visit multiple museums, historic sites, etc. for one set price.) In the end, we decided not to get them (obviously, I was for it and Rachael was against- she does not like to be tied down, that one). We just didn't know how many museums we would have time for, and then Rachael did some math and monetarily it didn't make sense...then we had to account for that fact that we both like afternoon naps, which always cuts into activity time. So, that was that, but we still saw so many amazing things that day; I shall describe them for you now.
Monk Bar/York City Walls
I know what you must be thinking, those Forker ladies enjoy their pints. Oh, silly reader, Monk Bar is not a bar or pub, but a very old gateway housed on one end of the city walls of York. But you are correct, the Forker ladies do enjoy pints.
Now then, Monk Bar houses a small museum about King Richard III, but sadly (for Amanda) we did not partake in that experience...even though it was *AHEM* on the itinerary that I made. In Rachael's defense my itinerary was very ambitious. Skipping the museum was a good call in the end, because we wanted to do more than just soak up knowledge that we would forget the next day. Instead, we began our York City Wall walk and saw some magnificent sights of the city and York Minster that we will never forget!
A short while later, we ventured off the city wall and found ourselves right near a Snickelway I had been desperate to find! I could barely contain my excitement as we made our way through a tunnel and around a bend, for I knew what would await us...another breathtaking view of the Minster! The sight of it truly did not get old and obviously, we stopped to do a photo shoot. #PortraitMode.
York Minster
We continued along the Snickelway towards the Minster, as it was next on our list. Coincidence or extremely well planned? I daresay it's the latter. Anyway, as we approached the Minster, the morning was already catching up to us...we had gotten up very early, Jane. What followed was quite humorous and a very good picture of how similar Rachael and I are when we decide we are tired.
There we were, in line for the Minster, making our way inside to buy tickets to explore the cathedral and climb to the top of the central tower, when from the moment we entered, Rachael and I had the same thought at the same time. We had no desire to explore or climb anything...oh, how relieved I was! You may recall that just days earlier, we explored and climbed all of St. Paul's Cathedral in London, so the thought of climbing more church stairs just utterly defeated me, Jane. We were pretty much both like, "Nah...I'm good." Forgive me, but it is a truth universally acknowledged that one cathedral, be it gothic or otherwise, looks the same as any other cathedral on the inside. As the youths say, don't @ me. (Is that what they actually say? I fear I am aging at a rapid pace.) The outside of York Minster is just so magnificent that the inside was a bit of a let down. Also, there was also a lot of construction in the cathedral, so it wasn't looking its best at the moment. I'm sure I have offended many architects with my insolent words about one of the oldest and most revered Gothic cathedrals in Europe- my apologies!
Minster Bookshop
Ah, such fond memories of this wonderful bookstore, located just a stone's throw away from the cathedral. It was one of those shops where books are stacked from floor to ceiling and on every surface and stair. I purchased a lovely, old copy of The Old Curiosity Shop by Charles Dickens whilst there.
The Red Lion
Since it was uncommonly hot outside and we were tired after just thinking about climbing more church steps, we decided it was high time for a rejuvenating pint before our next destination. BUT, knowing how languid we get after pints, we had the brilliant idea to each only get a hobbit-like half pint. Please note, that while a half pint of cider is the most refreshing beverage in the world, it did not (as we fooled ourselves into thinking) rejuvenate or energize us. Unsurprisingly, we were just as tired, if not more so, approximately ten minutes after finishing our wee pints of cider. Oh, well. We still had places to go and ancient city streets to tread.
York Castle Museum
Next on our list was the unique and fascinating York Castle Museum. This establishment is quite singular as it displays artifacts and exhibitions relating to York (and beyond) through the ages, using both historic and social exhibits. There is also a historically accurate, indoor street that immerses museum goers right into the Victorian era. It was thrilling and delightful! Additionally, there is a fashion exhibit that holds Regency era clothing, which you know I was rather taken with. In truth, Rachael and I gave the York Castle Museum a valiant effort, but we were losing steam fast. We did not have it in us to explore the prison section of the museum, but Mark told us all about it on our ghost tour the previous evening so we moved on.
Clifford's Tower
Clifford's Tower is quite a sight to behold atop its hill. This tower is nearly all that remains of York Castle, which was built by William the Conqueror (thank you for the information, English Heritage). Unfortunately, the tower has quite the nefarious history as many unpleasant and violent events took place there, but today it stands as a structure known for the most amazing panoramic views of the city. You can be sure, Jane, that Rachael and I took many, many pictures up there.
The reader should know that to reach the top of Clifford's Tower requires going up many steps (WOULD WE EVER BE FREE OF STEPS? Not a chance in Europe...) so afterwards we were really and truly tired; however, we were set on seeing the National Railway Station that day as well. So, we mustered every last bit of vacation strength we had and began our long walk there. To be sure, it was not that long of a walk as the city of York is not that large, but it felt like we were walking 500 miles. Just like the song. (You're singing it in your head now aren't you, gentle reader. You are most welcome.)
I cannot be completely sure, but I believe it was during this walk to the train station that we stopped into a charming shop called, Primark. Now, Jane, Primark is a delightful store that sells clothing, accessories, etc. but all for a an exceedingly reasonable price. I purchased quite a few articles whilst there (shoes, a fashionable, plaid dress, hufflepuff hoodie...you know necessary things). I wish we had Primarks in America...
National Railway Museum
This museum is a true national treasure. First of all, there was a café within where we could purchase provisions for lunch...which was quite necessary as we were hangry hobbits by the time we arrived. Secondly, the museum is home to countless historic trains, one of which was even a Royal carriage of Queen Victoria's! We mainly stayed in Station Hall, where one is free to wander in and out of various train cars. Additionally, this museum is free of charge, which always makes everything better!
This is where my recollection gets hazy, Jane. Though, I have no photographic proof, I am almost positive that after the Railway museum, Rachael and I went back to the inn for an afternoon nap before our evening excursions. *Sigh* This is what happens when one waits five months to write about one's holiday. In truth, I remember that we were both tired and cranky so I am almost positive that we did, in fact, go back for naps.
After our naps (probably?), it was time to head back down to the riverfront for we were to go on a boat tour that evening! I cannot help but chuckle when I think about this, Jane. But more on that in a moment. Whilst we waited to board, we thought we would indulge in a glass of rosé since we purchased our tour tickets ahead of time. Unfortunately, for us, it was probably the worst glass of rosé either of us had ever had. Luckily, it was the only bad drink I had in England, so one must not get bent out of shape over such things. It probably was not even worth mentioning, but it is a little late for that as I already have.
Now for the boat tour. C.O.L. (*Chuckle Out Loud*) When one boards a boat in York, one should know that one will be sailing along the River Ouse (pronounced: Ooze). Naturally, Rachael and I named our boat, "The Ooze Cruise." I do not wish to be unkind, nor would I change anything about York, but darn it all, there is almost nothing to see from the river. To be fair to York, our expectations may have been too high, though we did go under two or three lovely bridges, saw so many trees and birds, glimpsed a look at a school attended by Guy Fawkes's...waaaay in the distance (I think?). Also, we even saw...get ready for it...a few hot air balloons! (My apologies, this is one of those sisterly inside jokes. In truth, I did keep saying, rather loudly, "Oh my gosh! Look at those hot air balloons!" I may have been saying it facetiously. In my defense, we were starved for adventure on the river.) Never-the-less, it was a peaceful ride and the landscape was truly lovely.
After the *ahem* cruise along the River Ouse, we were ready for dinner and ended up at a restaurant that specializes in hamburgers. How very American of us. We then made our way back to the Black Swan for a good night's rest as the next day was to be the Crown Jewel of our trip: A visit to Chatsworth House. Also known as: PEMBERLEY.
Stay tuned for England Part Six, Jane and gentle readers!
Yours Faithfully,
Amanda
Dear Jane,
At this point, it is utterly ridiculous that I have not finished recounting my tales of England from this past AUGUST (I am truly ashamed), but I am determined to finish never-the-less. After all, it is never too late to tell your favorite, 18th-century authoress about your holiday that took place five months prior. So without further ado, I give you: England Part Five.
When last I left you, Rachael and I had arrived in York, checked into the Black Swan Inn and partook in a delightful ghost tour of the city with our guide, Mark. To be sure, our trip was going too fast; I couldn't believe we only had a few days left. I found myself being every bit as dramatic as Mary Crawford when she exclaimed the above quotation in Mansfield Park. I wanted time to stop so I could stay in York forever!
Unfortunately, however, Rachael and I WERE dictated by a watch and the next day was Monday, the sixth of August (exactly five months ago as of yesterday...how fortuitous). We were more than ready to go into full explorer mode and discover the city's greatest secrets...and snickelways. I do hope you haven't forgotten what snickelways are, gentle readers. If perchance you have, I refer you back to England Part Four.
 |
| I never miss an opportunity to take out a book. |
 |
| The pies, Jane. The pies. |
 |
| Wizards Welcome. |
 |
| Yum. |
After breakfast we had to make the difficult decision of whether or not to purchase York City Passes for the day. (These are popular passes that allow tourists to visit multiple museums, historic sites, etc. for one set price.) In the end, we decided not to get them (obviously, I was for it and Rachael was against- she does not like to be tied down, that one). We just didn't know how many museums we would have time for, and then Rachael did some math and monetarily it didn't make sense...then we had to account for that fact that we both like afternoon naps, which always cuts into activity time. So, that was that, but we still saw so many amazing things that day; I shall describe them for you now.
Monk Bar/York City Walls
I know what you must be thinking, those Forker ladies enjoy their pints. Oh, silly reader, Monk Bar is not a bar or pub, but a very old gateway housed on one end of the city walls of York. But you are correct, the Forker ladies do enjoy pints.
 |
| Monk Bar. |
Now then, Monk Bar houses a small museum about King Richard III, but sadly (for Amanda) we did not partake in that experience...even though it was *AHEM* on the itinerary that I made. In Rachael's defense my itinerary was very ambitious. Skipping the museum was a good call in the end, because we wanted to do more than just soak up knowledge that we would forget the next day. Instead, we began our York City Wall walk and saw some magnificent sights of the city and York Minster that we will never forget!
 |
| Like this. |
A short while later, we ventured off the city wall and found ourselves right near a Snickelway I had been desperate to find! I could barely contain my excitement as we made our way through a tunnel and around a bend, for I knew what would await us...another breathtaking view of the Minster! The sight of it truly did not get old and obviously, we stopped to do a photo shoot. #PortraitMode.York Minster
We continued along the Snickelway towards the Minster, as it was next on our list. Coincidence or extremely well planned? I daresay it's the latter. Anyway, as we approached the Minster, the morning was already catching up to us...we had gotten up very early, Jane. What followed was quite humorous and a very good picture of how similar Rachael and I are when we decide we are tired.
 |
| This was all we saw of the inside. |
 |
| Heaven. |
Minster Bookshop
Ah, such fond memories of this wonderful bookstore, located just a stone's throw away from the cathedral. It was one of those shops where books are stacked from floor to ceiling and on every surface and stair. I purchased a lovely, old copy of The Old Curiosity Shop by Charles Dickens whilst there.
The Red Lion
Since it was uncommonly hot outside and we were tired after just thinking about climbing more church steps, we decided it was high time for a rejuvenating pint before our next destination. BUT, knowing how languid we get after pints, we had the brilliant idea to each only get a hobbit-like half pint. Please note, that while a half pint of cider is the most refreshing beverage in the world, it did not (as we fooled ourselves into thinking) rejuvenate or energize us. Unsurprisingly, we were just as tired, if not more so, approximately ten minutes after finishing our wee pints of cider. Oh, well. We still had places to go and ancient city streets to tread.
 |
| Fond memories of half pints. |
 |
| I felt like I was in Victorian England! |
 |
| I want that dress. |
Clifford's Tower
 |
| Sissy! |
 |
| The foreboding tower. |
 |
| York Castle Museum, as seen from Clifford's Tower! |
I cannot be completely sure, but I believe it was during this walk to the train station that we stopped into a charming shop called, Primark. Now, Jane, Primark is a delightful store that sells clothing, accessories, etc. but all for a an exceedingly reasonable price. I purchased quite a few articles whilst there (shoes, a fashionable, plaid dress, hufflepuff hoodie...you know necessary things). I wish we had Primarks in America...
National Railway Museum
 |
| A royal train! |
This is where my recollection gets hazy, Jane. Though, I have no photographic proof, I am almost positive that after the Railway museum, Rachael and I went back to the inn for an afternoon nap before our evening excursions. *Sigh* This is what happens when one waits five months to write about one's holiday. In truth, I remember that we were both tired and cranky so I am almost positive that we did, in fact, go back for naps.
 |
| Even bad wine deserves a picture. |
 |
| This was Guy Fawkes's school...maybe. |
 |
| "Oh my gosh! Look at those hot air balloons!" ~Amanda Forker, facetiously |
Stay tuned for England Part Six, Jane and gentle readers!
Yours Faithfully,
Amanda
 |
| Lovely trees along the River Ouse. :) |
Comments
Post a Comment